Late 1830’s sleeve inspiration

I mentioned some of my plans in my last post. By now, the 1780’s project has been done (iteration 1, at least), and I will wear it next weekend. Expect more posts after that, because then I’ll actually have proper pictures of the whole thing, dress and hat.

It also means I’ve been slowly shifting focus onto the 1830’s project. Just a quick disclaimer; I don’t know if I’ll actually be able to finish this before the January deadline, because I also have a lot of other (non-sewing) stuff going on. But I’ll very probably start it nonetheless.

For my first 1830’s project, I’ve actually chosen a dress from later in the decade. And that means it also doesn’t have the huge sleeves the 1830’s are so famous for. I didn’t do that because I don’t like large sleeves, because they’re really fun. I made that choice, because in the latter half of the 1830’s, you get sleeves which basically start with the same amount of fabric, but where the sleeves are then pleated and smocked in various ways to make a relatively narrow sleeve out of all that fabric.

And I just really love this style of intricate sleeve. So, in this post, some inspiration pictures of 1830’s sleeves you might not have considered typically 1830’s huge, but which are very pretty!

This dress started my love for the sleeves in this era. Three rows of tiny pleats, with strips of fabric in-between, and piping, of course. I found this picture ages back, and for a long time, it was one of the few 1830’s dresses I truly found pretty and inspiring. The craziness eventually grew on me, but I still love this dress.

Dress, 1837-1840, V&A T.184-1931

 

Then, of course, there’s the dress I’m planning on recreating. With the same narrow gathers at the top, but than a wider band around the sleeve with a rosette.

Ensemble ca. 1836, MET museum 1988.105.5a–d

 

There seems to’ve been a bit of a thing with gold colored silk dresses in this era, if you look at the MET collection, as they have a lot. This one also features the typical small pleats, but finishes off the bottom one with a bit of lovely trim. (And look at those tiny gathers at the wrists!

Dress, silk, probably American

Dress ca. 1836, MET 1973.226

 

There’s endless variations on the theme, and all are just a little different. This one has very narrow pleats, finished off with a bit of ruffle.

Evening dress, silk, wool, cotton, British

Evening dress ca. 1835, MET 1984.89

 

This dress actually keeps up the gathering all through-out the sleeve. It has tiny cartridge gathers at the top, and then after that bands to gather the volume down in different places.

Dress, silk, American

Dress ca. 1835, MET 13.49.22a, b

 

The previous dresses are all in silk, but the trend was definitely applied to cotton dresses as well. More difficult to see, due to the prints, but it’s all in the details!

This one is actually quite similar to the palest gold dress above, but with two rows of pleats before the gathered ruffle.

Dress, cotton, American

Dress 1837–39, MET C.I.38.23.2

 

Most dresses feature long pleats, but this one has gathers instead. You can almost see where the gathers have been stitched down in places to keep them in shape.

Dress, cotton, British

Drss ca. 1837, MET  1983.241.1

 

A bit more difficult to see because of the angle, but the cut of this bodice is so pretty it deserves a spot. The sleeves seem to have two rows of pleats and bands inbetween.

Ensemble, cotton, American

Ensemble ca. 1837, MET C.I.56.27.1a, b

 

Most of these dresses were from the MET, simply because they have the best pictures, but to finish off, a Dutch example. I’ve had the pleasure to see this dress in person, and admire the sleeves.

Wedding dress of wool with woven silk stripes, 1836. Gemeentemuseum Den Haag 1018228

 

Inspiration – Regency sleeves

When thinking of the fashions between 1788 and 1820, the obvious characteristics seem to be a high waist-line, as slim skirt and puff-sleeves. There’s a lot more variation in sleeve styles though, with long/elbow/short length sleeves and both puffs and narrow sleeves. I started to look at this because I wanted something different than the classic puff, and found this great article at Historical Sewing which gives a good overview. But even within the short styles worn for evening wear, there’s a lot more variation than just narrow/puffed. So for this post a whole bunch of short regency sleeve styles from various fashion plates, to serve as inspiration. Starting with bands of gathered fabric, to fitted sleeves with embroidery, scallops, ruching and pleats, to puff sleeves in multiple variations, to sleeves gathered in the center.

Sleeve 4Sleeve 9Sleeve 11Sleeve 16Sleeve 18Sleeve 21Sleeve 22Sleeve 1    Sleeve 5Sleeve 7Sleeve 13Sleeve 10 Sleeve 20Sleeve 8Sleeve 30Sleeve 28Sleeve 40Sleeve 6Sleeve 15Sleeve 19                    Sleeve 26Sleeve 2Sleeve 14Sleeve 17Sleeve 51Sleeve 3Sleeve 23Sleeve 32      Sleeve 37 Sleeve 47Sleeve 43Sleeve 41Sleeve 25Sleeve 45Sleeve 31Sleeve 46Sleeve 35Sleeve 33Sleeve 12Sleeve 27Sleeve 38Sleeve 44Sleeve 48Sleeve 52Sleeve 50Sleeve 42Sleeve 24Sleeve 29Sleeve 39Sleeve 36Sleeve 34Sleeve 49