2022 plans

I wrote this post right after the 2021 re-cap, and then waited until I’d got a picture of my latest finished project. As that still hasn’t happened yet, I’m just going ahead without.

Honestly, similarly to last year, my plans aren’t super concrete yet. I’ve got some events planned, but for most I could also wear something from my closet, so I have very little things that absolutely need to get done. Instead of planning far ahead, I’m making plans as I go along, based on what events come up and what I feel like doing.

The first project of the year I finished early january! During the holiday break, I finally made a winter coat for myself. It’s difficult to find nice wool coats which are both warm and have a flared skirt, so that was my goal.

I haven’t actually taken good pictures of the final result, but hopefully I’ll manage soon so I can actually write a post about it. It’s already seen quite some use, and I’m very happy with it so far.

Right now, I’m working on a project I tentatively started last year; a smocked late 19th century blouse. I’ve started the practice smocking last year, but I’ve now cut the blouse and marked the smocking lines. There’ll be quite a bit of hand-work on this, but it should be really nice when done! Mine will be based on the one below, though made in black silk.

After this, it becomes a bit vaguer already! I do want to continue on my stays. I don’t know how far I’ll get, but I do have an 18th century event in fall. Depending on the speed of the progress, I might be able to use that there. Since I don’t have recent pictures, here’s one from before it was fully stitched:

It might even be possible to make a dress to go over it. That would probably be the one I showed last year as well, a chemise based on this project. No promises though, it might take more time than expected! (it has done so far…)

Some other things that are on my wish list (and which I already actually have fabric for):

1830’s wardrobe additions. Most notably a white blouse, a cotton dress and a wool coat.

I really like the versatility of blouse/skirt combinations, and it’s something you start seeing in fashion plates around this time:

I have this cotton fabric for a dress. It’s very bold, but that fits the crazy 1830’s silhouette perfectly! Cotton dresses were very fashionable in the 1830’s, and can be a bit more practical than silk. So might be nice for day-events in particular.

And I’ve got fabric for two 19th century summer gowns, good for summer picnics! Something like these:

One black:

And one white:

This is the fabric I have. It’s lovely sheer cotton, you can see the print on the underlayers shining through.

As you see, nothing super specific yet! The events I have planned are a 1890’s ball (for which I made the green dress), a Victorian fancy dress event (for which I’ll probably either re-wear my fairy bustle, or adapt/accessorize the gold/black bustle gown to a ‘night/stars’ theme), and an 18th century event (for which I’ll either wear my silver dress, or make something new if my stays are finished). I’m enjoying sewing whatever I feel like in the moment, so I’ll probably keep doing this, especially as long as I can use my fabric stash. I’ve got quite a lot of options to pick from, so plenty of opportunities!

Plans for 2021

After looking back, it’s time to look ahead!

Usually, my plans for a new year are pretty directly correlated to plans for events to attend. I want to make the things I can wear somewhere.

Obviously, that makes planning for 2021 a little bit different. Any events which are tentatively planned are those that got moved or cancelled last year. And mostly, I’ve already made the outfits for them.

This makes planning more difficult obviously, but is also an opportunity in a way, to tackle some projects that never happened because no events came up.

So far, I’ve already started on some UFO’s. I finished a winter dress I started last year, my 1830s hat, and an 1940’s dress which has been in my UFO basket for at least 2 years.

1940s style dress

I also want to finally make the 1830’s golden pelerine to go with my golden dress, which I’ve been stalling a bit because it has tons of scallops. I started on that last weekend!

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And obviously, I want to continue working on my hand-sewn stays. I’m getting an increasing itch to do more 18th century stuff, and it would be really nice if I could actually fit things over new stays. The good news on these is that I’m now on the back-panels, which are both the last ones, and the one with the least boning in them. So the end of sewing channels is actually in sight!

I’ve also been thinking of making a vest to go with my split skirt. I’ve already got the fabric and pattern for that, so it would be a really nice venture into tailoring.

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The final thing I’ve got plans for is slightly different, as I’ll be making my sister-in-law to be’s wedding dress! I’ve already started on it, as I wanted to make sure I’d have plenty of time to work on this. It’s a little different from what I usually do, but I’m very excited to work on it. It gives me the opportunity to work with different fabric and use new techniques, which is really exciting.

So, as you can see, I don’t have a lot of full-outfit plans yet! I’m taking this slight ‘lag’ in event-sewing as an opportunity to not plan quite so far ahead. And to do first whatever strikes my fancy first. I have plenty of long-term projects, a lot of which I actually have fabric for already. So some of that list might finally happen! Below are some inspirations of things that are floating in my mind somewhere.

Early 1850s Mourning perhaps? I have some lovely thin black cotton which would work well.

I also have white silk and black lace, which I want to make into a late 1850s ballgown. Though I’d have to check whether I have enough lace for this precise design, I do love it.

Of course, I’ve also still got green wool for an 1830’s coat

Or, if I’m in a mood for bustles, I’ve got the perfect checkered silk for this outfit on the left?

And, if I finish my stays, I can perhaps even finally start on that chemise gown I have the perfect fabric for….

Of course, a lack of events is also a chance to sew on a whim a little bit more, so we’ll see which of these actually happens. But it’s fun to cream of all the pretty things!

2020 – Plans!

After looking back, it’s time to look ahead! As usual, my most concrete plans have to do with events, and everything else is a bit less defined.

Firstly, 1895! I’ll be going to Bath in May for Isabela’s Victorian ball, and preparations have started. A ball gown is the main thing, and then a day-outfit for the day after.

I have started a new corset, which is just waiting for the boning (which still has to arrive) and then binding.

The other under-thing to make is my final petticoat. I plan to also use this as a test-run for the skirt pattern. I have a blue glazed cotton I’m planning to mix with pale blue lace and white flounces. I don’t know how accurate the blue-white combo is this way, but colored petticoats were definitely a thing!

For the dress, I’m planning on using a green dupioni with black organza overlay. I don’t have one specific example, but it’ll probably be a mix between something like this;

And something like this:

I really want to take my time with this project, and use historical techniques as much as possible. Interfacing the skirt with tartan, having a hem facing and brush braid, slightly gathering channels for boning in the bodice, etc. May sounds like a long way away, but with my speed I know I’ll need time if I really want to pay attention to the details!

For the breakfast the day after I haven’t quite decided yet. My Edwardian tartan outfit might be an option (slightly stretching the theme…), but I do need to fix the skirt to properly fit again (would be a good incentive in any case!). Another option would be a sporty outfit, as I recently found a modern sweater which actually looks a lot like the 1895 sport sweaters. Whatever I decide, I do want to make something to go with the sweater. Specifically, I have a beautiful wool fabric and the TV299 split skirt pattern I want to make up.

An example of a sport sweater, and a split skirt from the MET.

For the first half of the year, this is the only planned event for which I really need to make something. Plans for the second half are not finalized yet, but I’m looking into going to England again in fall for a 1830’s event. In that case, I’d want to make the 1830’s dress I have materials and plans for, based on this original (but in green):

Concord museum

I also really like the idea of having a white cotton bodice to wear with a colored skirt, so I might make that as well to go with the green skirt, and increase versatility.

And I’d need to make a bonnet (I do already have a pattern), and perhaps a cap.

It would also be a good opportunity to finish the pelerine which goes with my gold dress, as in the original outfit.

I also bought some wool to make an 1830’s coat. That’s pushing plans into the more ambitions though, so who knows whether it would actually happen. But, something like this?

For my non-event related plans, I mainly want to work on my new stays. I genuinely don’t know if I’ll finish those in a year, but I would like to at least have finished all boning channels and main construction. As I’ll also be working on other things in-between progress will be slower than in October, but slow and steady also works!

The stays will look like something like this for quite a while yet!

And that’s it for the somewhat concrete plans! I have a whole lot of fabric in my stash of which I know what I want to make out of it, but as usual planning and impulse at the time will probably dictate what else (if anything) happens and what does not.

2019 plans

With looking back, there’s also time to plan new things!

As per usual, my plans mostly focus on the first half of the year, and are centered around events.

First up is the new-years ball, with theme 1830-1860. I figured that this would be a perfect excuse to finally make that 1830’s dress I wanted to make. The dress is mostly done now (which is good, as the ball is in a week). I do need to add some finishing touches, first priority is to get it wearable for the ball! (No tacked down allowances needed for that 😉 ).

A little peak at the dress

 

After that, I’ll start sewing for a Victorian Fancy dress ball in April. I really love the idea of this ball, and my idea for a dress is mostly based on what I have in my stash. I have a purple/gold changeant silk organza, which is very lovely, but also very purple, and not very period looking. It’d be perfect for fancy dress though.

I love the shorter skirts you sometimes see in fancy dress costumes, and I’ll be going for an 1880s look. Probably some fairy/queen type of thing, hopefully with gold flowers all over.

The lady on the left is one of my inspirations. I might make a change or two to the drapery etc, but the silhouette and flowers is what I’m going for.

 

I have one more event planned so far, which is a Regency ball, but I’ll probably re-wear my red/white dress, or my blue/silver one for that. The final plan I have is related to the Victorian picnics I’ve been organizing. It’s a pretty low-key event, but a lot of fun and good excuse to dress up. I found out last summer though, that all of my victorian costumes are either silk, velvet, or wool. Not the best for hot summer weather. So I really want to make a cotton bustle dress, and I have my eye on the tennis style dresses you see in the 1880s.

I love this one, it’s relatively simple, yet a lot of fun.

 

For the second half of the year, it’ll depend on events again what my plans will be!

Sewing plans

Summer is nearing it’s end, and it feels like a good time to take stock, and look ahead.

At the beginning of the year, I only had a couple of concrete plans. The historical one’s have been realized. Of the two vintage dresses I had planned, one has been started.

So far so good!

At the moment, my plans for the coming months are quite settled.

First up is finishing the 1780’s round gown. It only needs a hem at this point to be wearable. I’ll be wearing this to an event in October, and I’m thinking of leaving it untrimmed until then, and finishing the look with a sash and fichu and a fabulous hat instead. I’m currently working on those!

One of my inspirations for the hat is the top one:

 

I’ll be re-wearing the gown in November, for a ball with the theme being 1773. My dress is a little later, so I thought I’d add lace flounces around the sleeves and neckline to put it a bit more into the early 1780’s at least. That would also mean it gets a ‘new’ look compared to the October event, which I like.

Something like this?

 

After that, the first event will be in January. The theme for this ball is 1830-1860. I’d first planned to wear my black velvet 1860s dress, because I’d never worn this to a ball before. However, with the impromptu visit to Brussels last month that has changed, so I’m reconsidering my options. The 1830’s have been on the list for quite some time, and I already have fabric for a possible dress, and a design in mind. So I think I’ll aim to make that instead, and if I run out of time (as I also need to do underwear), I can always wear the 1860’s dress.

This is the design. I love this, so might try to actually copy it as closely as possible.

 

For next year, plans are also lining up! There’ll be a Victorian Fancy dress ball in April which I want to go to. I have some purple/gold changeant silk organza in stash, and it would work really well for a fancy-dress outfit. I’m thinking of doing something 1880’s style, with a shorter skirt as you sometimes see on fancy-dress fashion plates. The design hasn’t been quite settled yet, but I’m thinking of doing something lavender/queen/fairy like. Ideally, I’d be able to ‘remove’ the purely fancy dress parts, add an underskirt to make it longer, and wear it as regular 1880’s ballgown as well. Because I’m all for re-usability!

Maybe something like this fairy, design wise.

2018 plans

I’ve already done the 2017 in review, so now it’s time to look ahead!

I actually haven’t made too many specific plans for this year yet, but I do have a couple of ‘unfinished’ projects. These have either been started, or I’ve bought the fabric with a very specific purpose in mind.

The first project of the year is already done! An 17th century chemise for underneath my 1660’s dress.

 

The only unfinished project I have at the moment is a pair of 18th century stays. These got pushed to the side line by other projects, but are already some way done. Those’ll be next. A little teaser:

 

I also have two vintage-style dresses I still want to make. These were first planned for last year, but got pushed away by other projects. I have both the fabric and the patterns though, so these are high on the list. (Hopefully before it becomes too warm for long sleeves…?)

This, in a black floral.

And this one, in a grey plaid.

 

Another thing I’m thinking of is to make the steeple butterfly henin to go with my burgundian dress. That was the original plan, but due to lack of time I first made a smaller, flowerpot style henin. I do love the slight crazyness of the style though, so I’d like to make the taller one as well.

 

Those are the concrete plans! After that, it gets a little more vague, but I do have a number of fabrics I want to use next year.

I think I might first go towards the 18th century. I’ve made a bum roll and petticoat for the 17th dress, those would both work for 18th century, and with the stays made I’d only need a shift to complete the undergarments. I also have an 18th century themed event in October, so that’d be a good goal.

I just got this silver damask fabric, and I think it’d be perfect for a round gown. I like the idea of starting the 18th century journey with a round gown, as it’s really one garment and doesn’t require a separate petticoat. Most round gowns are also relatively simple trim-wise (they often don’t have any), so that allows me to really focus on fit and silhouette. Plus, with the damask fabric many frills aren’t necessary.

Something like this dress from the MET? I like the idea of matching my fabric with a black belt. And white lace and fichu?

 

What gets made also depends on events as well. If I have a time-specific event, that’ll probably be what gets made first. I have plenty of fabric and ideas in any case.

One is a sheer black cotton I was thinking of making an early Victorian dress of. Something like this? I love how the sheerness of the fabric is used in the design.

 

But I also have the materials for several other possibilities. A gorgeous red/black/gold plaid silk, combined with black maybe for this left number?

 

Or a light gold flower patterned silk which was talking about the 1830’s to me.

For something like this maybe?

 

It’s fun to dream in any case! I might do another post with plans half way through the year, if stuff is more concrete by then :).

Aside from the dressmaking plans, I also want to visit a few more historical events this year. I’d wanted to in 2017 as well, but things got sold out so some fell through. In the end, I only went to Bath and missed all more local events. This year has started off well though, as the first historical ball is already past! I also have a regency ball in my calendar in May, so either the red/white or the blue/silver dress will finally get a proper outing. And in October there’s a soiree with an 18th century theme, to which I hope to wear something 18th century. The theme for this is not as strict, so other historical stuff is also allowed, but I’d like to make something new. If the silver round gown gets made, I’ll probably wear it there! And who knows, some more events might come up!

2017 in review

A new year means time to look back to what I’ve done last year!

I had some concrete plans, and some more tentative ideas. The concrete plans were for the first half of the year. These were: a balayeuse for the 1870’s gown, a day bodice for said gown, a bodice & overskirt for the 1870’s dress of a friend, finish the red fancy spencer, and a 1940s floral dress.

Of those, only the floral dress hasn’t been done, so pretty good in total!

The balayeuse

1870’s day/dinner bodice

 

A bodice, belt and overskirt for Marije

 

A very fancy spencer

 

The tentative plans were: a red 18th century cloak, a brocade burgundian gown and steeple henin, a satin 1660’s dress and a black-white 1870’s dress.

Of these, the burgundian got made but the henin was simplified into a flowerpot style. The 1660’s happened, but in a much fancier fabric and with a different design than I was first thinking of.

A damask burgundian gown.

 

The 1660’s gown. This became a much larger project, as I wanted to do the fancier fabric and trim justice.

 

And, of course, I also made some things which weren’t on the list. In addition to the 1870s day bodice, I also made a hat and chemisette. The burgundian gown actually started with a linen smock, and then kirtle, which I hadn’t planned at the beginning of the year. Although not the one planned, I did make 2 vintage dresses, one 1940s and one 1930s. I also made a full 1880’s winter ensemble, and a corset to match.

 

Chemisette for the 1870’s dress. I also made a hat and bag.

A medieval smock

An medieval kirtle and veil

An 1940’s dress inspired by my grandmother.

An 1930’s dress from an original pattern.

An 1880s corset

An 1880’s winter ensemble, underskirt, overskirt, bodice, hat and muff.

 

All in all, a pretty productive year! I also visited a number of fashion exhibitions, which was really great. And I went to Bath for the Victorian ball. Stay tuned for some tentative plans for next year!

Life & plans

It’s been a bit quiet here on the blog, mostly because I’ve barely sewed the last month. The main reason is that I was very busy finishing my PhD dissertation, which was due end of august. I made the deadline (yay!), submitted the draft and now only have administrative stuff to do. That firstly means time for a holiday, but I’ve also been planning some new sewing projects. I’ll have some more time before I start a new job, and some new costume events coming up, so that means plans are being made!

The first plan is a new era for me, late 17th century! There’s a new-years ball in Gent in the opera, and after thinking about going for a couple of years that’s now definite. The dress code for this year is 1660-1715, so I’m going to make something new.

I’ve been eyeing some golden silk, so maybe something like this:

I really love the pearls with the black bows on this dress.

Although if I find some (affordable) silk satin something like this might also still be in the running. I do really like the ‘open’ front.

 

Another big project I’ve been thinking about is a 1880’s wool winter dress. Ever since I got my Victorian winter boots I’ve been eyeing wool and braid dresses. Plus: there’s a winter event in December I could wear it to.

Things might change, but this is the idea I have so far. Burgundy wool, black faux fur and loads of braiding (because why make it easy).

 

These two are the bigger plans, but I also have some other things going on.

Firstly, I’ve started on a pair of 18th century stays. No plans for a dress yet, but I figured I’d start on the underwear so that once I have an event for it, I’d have a foundation to build on.

The main layers are already sewn together (green linen outer layer), but this is me planning out the boning channels. I’m also planning on some decorative stitching on these. (the black swirlies)

 

Additionally, I’ve been thinking on making an 1880’s corset. I don’t necessarily need a new one, by 1870’s one would do for the winter dress, but I’d like trying out some new things. Particularly shaping me towards the pattern a bit more, instead of the other way around. In other words: padding. I’ve got most of the materials I’d need in stock, so it won’t cost much extra. It’d be one layer of black coutil with red contrasting boning channels, german whalebone bones and flossing.

I saw this corset in person last week, and really liked the contrast panels for the cording, so I might try to incorporate that as well.

 

I’ve also got fabric for two vintage dresses. One 1940’s black with flowers, and one 1950’s plaid. Especially the first one has been planned for a while, so I’d like to get started on these as well.

This is the pattern for the plaid dress, I’ve got a grey-black one with a small blue stripe to make it.

 

So these are the plans for the coming months! I’ll see how far I get, although I have a break between jobs I also have a tendency to plan a little too much. The coming weeks I’ll be on holiday, and after that I’ll get started!

Early Bustle Ball gown

Last year in May, Izabella from Prior Attire organized a Victorian ball in Bath. I didn’t go, but I saw a lot of images of the event, and many gorgeous visitors. I decided at that point that it’d be worthwhile to put the event on my wish-list, just to see if it’d be possible to go one time. It would have to involve a holiday as I don’t actually live in the UK, but it’s always fun to dream.

Shortly after the ball, the theme for next year was announced, namely early bustle. Even though I had no concrete plans to go, I started looking at gowns from that period and eventually decided to just make one! There’s another ball a bit closer to home in January, so if I could manage to finish before then I’d be able to wear it anyway.

So a new project was started! I now have the corset and bustle/petticoat finished, and it’s time to start working on the dress.

When settling on what to make, I started with looking at ball-gowns from this period, namely 1870-1876. I found quite quickly that most are actually a bit too frilly for my taste. Most dresses I saw had some elements I didn’t like. Some had a lot. I quickly decided that the ruching you see a lot was not for me.

Something like this was a nope…

So instead, I went looking for what I did want, to see if I could incorporate this into one design. First up was color! I didn’t have too much choice, as I wanted to buy the fabric at an outlet. This made buying silk possible budget-wise, but given how much I’d need I would depend on stock. Almost all ball-gowns in fashion plates are white or pastel. The very occasional red or black appears, but pink and baby-blue were definitely popular. It’s a little too sweet for me though. So I decided to go for a light green/yellow/sand color if I could find it.

And that worked out! I bought a lovely thin but sturdy taffeta in a very pale yellow/lime color. It’s fairly difficult to photograph the color right, but this comes pretty close:

On to the rest of the design! I knew I wanted a train, as almost all ballgowns seem to have one. It’s not always practical though, so I want a train I can bustle up or remove. This means having the train as an over-skirt so that I can either remove it or bustle it up by attaching ties on the inside, should be doable!

For the front and back overskirt, I decided to keep it simple. This’ll be my first time making a bustle, and I don’t want to make it too complicated for myself. So the bustle will be based on a pattern as shown in this video.

For the underskirt I don’t want a train, so I can wear the dress without one. Ideally with trim all the way around so the train can be removed. I’m not certain if I have enough fabric for a lot of pleating, so I settled on another type of trim. Lace! You see quite a lot of examples of sheer-ish black lace on top of light fabrics, something I really like. This brown dress is a nice example:

So, lace it is! I also decided that I want flowers. They’re so typical for the period, and can serve to bring a little color into the picture. I’m aiming for (dark)red.

For the bodice, I’m going for pleating, inspired by this image, although I’ll probably do the basic puff sleeve.

 

Although I haven’t got the lace and flowers I’ll eventually use, I pulled something from my stash just to look  at the color combinations.

 

And with everything kept in mind, this is the initial design! I might change some things along the way, but this is the plan!

To finish off, shortly after I made the design image, I found this fashion plate. I love how the middle dress resembles my design. I might even go for the lace as bertha as well…

Projects

I haven’t been sewing so much lately, too much other stuff to do, and life gets in the way sometimes. Loads of ideas though, and although I’m not very quick, I’m already planning new projects. So for now, an overview of what I want to do, in various states of reality.

Working on:

Blue dotted Regency dress. This is actually almost done. I only need to hem it. The only thing holding me back is that I have to check the fabric at the top of the skirt, as it might have come apart a little as its so fragile. In that case, I sort of need to re-attach the skirt first before I hem it, and that’s a pain to do, so I’m procastinating.

Irish dance dress. This one is actually coming along nicely, with the bodice, bodice lining, skirt and sleeves all being done, but none of it actually being attached to each-other. I need to assemble it, and figure out what I want with the decorative parts.

 

Have fabric and pattern for:

Black velvet 1860’s evening bodice. I actually have this cut out in the velvet, just have to cut the lining and assemble it. (and then, trimming!)

Red regency spencer. I’ve actually been planning this for a while, and I have the perfect fabric for it, as well as a pattern I’m starting from. I want to wear it with a red/white regency dress though, so I might want to make that first…

Red/White regency dress. The one which matches the spencer above. I have a pattern I’m starting from, and I have fabric, but its not perfect and I want to search for an alternative first. I’ll probably get that done soon, and then I can either start with the new fabric, or with the one I already have.

Red Edwardian cloak. I’ve been wanting to make a red cloak for ages, and I have beautiful red wool to actually do it. I’m basing my pattern on online and seen examples, so I’ll just need to make a mock-up for it.

 

Have pattern for:

Edwardian underwear. I figure that when starting on this era with the cloak, I might as well do it well and also build an outfit. So starting with the basics. I’m planning on making a chemise, drawers, corset cover and corset. Now I just need the fabric!

1860’s crinoline. I have one already, but after wearing it one day it starts to fall apart… The downside of using cheap materials and duck-tape. So I decided to do it properly, because I know it will keep me from wearing my black 1860’s dress otherwise. The pattern is bought and due to arrive soon, so I can start buying supplies.

 

Planning:

Edwardian blouse & skirt. I don’t have a pattern or fabric for these yet, figured I’d start with the underwear. I’ve beautiful antique lace for the blouse though, and that’s what partly inspired the idea. I’m thinking a white/off-white blouse, and I really want to make a black/red tartan skirt to go with it, and maybe a vest…?

 

After that:

Okay, so I want to do way too much, so this list is something I’m not starting on for a while. But still.

I love 18th century clothing, especially chintz dresses and jackets. So I want to make one, a jacket and petticoat first, and then maybe an anglaise. And of course I’d need stays first, so that would be the first step.

A bustle dress. I already have a Truly Victorian pattern for an 1880’s jacket, which I’d love to make. And the same goes for a bustle pattern and an underskirt pattern. (all bought second-hand, so I took the chance of cheaper patterns while it lasted!). So bustle, petticoat, under-skirt, (over-skirt), jacket would be new projects. This would need to be done properly though, so I’m waiting with this until I finish some of the previous list!