2020 – Plans!

After looking back, it’s time to look ahead! As usual, my most concrete plans have to do with events, and everything else is a bit less defined.

Firstly, 1895! I’ll be going to Bath in May for Isabela’s Victorian ball, and preparations have started. A ball gown is the main thing, and then a day-outfit for the day after.

I have started a new corset, which is just waiting for the boning (which still has to arrive) and then binding.

The other under-thing to make is my final petticoat. I plan to also use this as a test-run for the skirt pattern. I have a blue glazed cotton I’m planning to mix with pale blue lace and white flounces. I don’t know how accurate the blue-white combo is this way, but colored petticoats were definitely a thing!

1898 Vintage Fashion - H.O'Neills Spring & Summer Catalogue Page 31 - Victorian Ladies Skirts | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

For the dress, I’m planning on using a green dupioni with black organza overlay. I don’t have one specific example, but it’ll probably be a mix between something like this;

Green/black, with silk dupioni?

And something like this:

Portrait of Countess of Santiago | Joaquin Sorolla y Bastida | oil painting

I really want to take my time with this project, and use historical techniques as much as possible. Interfacing the skirt with tartan, having a hem facing and brush braid, slightly gathering channels for boning in the bodice, etc. May sounds like a long way away, but with my speed I know I’ll need time if I really want to pay attention to the details!

For the breakfast the day after I haven’t quite decided yet. My Edwardian tartan outfit might be an option (slightly stretching the theme…), but I do need to fix the skirt to properly fit again (would be a good incentive in any case!). Another option would be a sporty outfit, as I recently found a modern sweater which actually looks a lot like the 1895 sport sweaters. Whatever I decide, I do want to make something to go with the sweater. Specifically, I have a beautiful wool fabric and the TV299 split skirt pattern I want to make up.

An example of a sport sweater, and a split skirt from the MET.

bumble button: advertismentAmerican cycling suit, circa 1896. This particular ensemble features a bifurcated skirt that allows the rider a more comfortable ride while also giving the modest appearance of a skirt at front. Other more daring ensembles feature fully bifurcated Knickerbockers. This suit also includes a pair of gaiters, which provide protection for the legs.

For the first half of the year, this is the only planned event for which I really need to make something. Plans for the second half are not finalized yet, but I’m looking into going to England again in fall for a 1830’s event. In that case, I’d want to make the 1830’s dress I have materials and plans for, based on this original (but in green):

Concord museum collection - but in moss green, tucks in skirt?

Concord museum

I also really like the idea of having a white cotton bodice to wear with a colored skirt, so I might make that as well to go with the green skirt, and increase versatility.

All The Pretty Dresses: 1830's Bodice

And I’d need to make a bonnet (I do already have a pattern), and perhaps a cap.

hats fashion print original 19th century french antique engraving no 3

It would also be a good opportunity to finish the pelerine which goes with my gold dress, as in the original outfit.

I also bought some wool to make an 1830’s coat. That’s pushing plans into the more ambitions though, so who knows whether it would actually happen. But, something like this?

Coat

For my non-event related plans, I mainly want to work on my new stays. I genuinely don’t know if I’ll finish those in a year, but I would like to at least have finished all boning channels and main construction. As I’ll also be working on other things in-between progress will be slower than in October, but slow and steady also works!

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The stays will look like something like this for quite a while yet!

And that’s it for the somewhat concrete plans! I have a whole lot of fabric in my stash of which I know what I want to make out of it, but as usual planning and impulse at the time will probably dictate what else (if anything) happens and what does not.

2019 in review

The new year has started, so it’s time to look back again! I really like these retrospects as they often reveal I’ve done more than I thought.

Looking back to my plans a year ago, there were three main things. Finish my 1830’s dress, make a Victorian fancy dress fairy costume, and an 1880’s tennis dress for summer picknicks. I didn’t really make plans yet for the second half of the year.

The good news: I actually did all of those things!

The 1830’s dress was finished and worn to two events:

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So was the fancy dress fairy, for a ball in April, and then again last weekend:

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And I finished my tennis dress in summer, wearing it once before and once after all the trimming was done:

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I’m actually quite happy I already managed to wear all outfits more than once!

Between May and July, I also started embroidering pockets during travel time, and finished a pair:

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After that, I slowed down a bit. I’d been sewing on bigger, deadline-bound projects for half a year, and needed a break from that. I did some little things in August and September, and started working on my new stays in October when abroad. November was mostly spent travelling, and in December I started the prep for my new big project.

In August I re-covered some things for my sewing room, and did some crochet which I didn’t blog about (a shawl, a scarf, a hat, legwarmers, and a neck/arm warmer set):

My sewing room now finally has matching iron/pillow covers

 

In September I started on a new long-time hand sewing project, fully boned hand-sewn stays from Patterns of Fashion 5. I did the drafting and 5 mock-ups in that time.

 

In October I was abroad, and spent quite a bit of time sewing boning channels. I finished the first panel in about 3 weeks, and at least 16 hours of stitching.

 

I started the second panel in November, but didn’t finish yet, as most of the month was spent travelling. In December, after getting back home I started on other things again. I started and finished one wool skirt for daily wear, and a cotton 1894 petticoat. I also finally finished a re-make of my Edwardian corset I’d started on in summer. More on that in an upcoming blog!

 

Overall, I’m pretty happy with my year! Initially I’d expected more full costumes after summer, but with spending two months abroad that changed a bit. I am really glad to have started the new stays though, as I’d been wanting to for at least a year. They’ll be a long term project without set deadline, and I’ve found it’s quite nice to have a hand-sewing task to do if I don’t want to bother with patterning and such. I also really love the materials, which always heightens the enjoyment.

In addition to the sewing, I also visited 4 balls, one fantasy event, organized 3 historical picnics, visited 6 costume exhibitions, went to Edinburgh for a dress-making event, and met fellow costume-makers half way across the world in Wellington. Thanks to everyone for making it a great costume year!

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