Regency short stays

Now my black dress is done, it’s time to start new projects! I want to make a new regency ballgown, but before that I’d like to make proper undergarments. The previous regency dresses I’ve made were fitted over modern underwear as I didn’t want to spend much time working on something no one could see, but for the next one I’d like to take a bit more time to do it right. This December Sense & Sensibility patterns had a discount action and I bought 3 of their e-patterns. Even though the printing can be a hassle, e-patterns are truly a great invention, especially if you live far away from the pattern companies. They’re a lot cheaper, get there a lot quicker and you save shipping costs which can double the price. This weekend I started with the regency short stays, and actually got pretty far!

I’m using coutil for the interlining (left-overs from my 1866 corset) and white cotton for the lining and interlining. I’ll probably bone the stays, though I’m still debating between plastic and steel boning. I don’t need that much support, so plastic would work, but those bones are black and will show through the white cotton lining…

For now, progress pictures!

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The original pattern pieces, cutting out the muslin.

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The mock-up. I tend to be lazy and just pin my mock-ups and not sew them because it’s so much quicker and easier to just adapt the pins.

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Cutting out the modified pattern in coutil. You can see I lowered the neckline slightly and went down in size a bit. Those were really the only changes needed.

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Sewing the coutil layer together first to check the fit. It was alright, although a bit tighter than the mock-up because the fabric doesn’t stretch.

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Clipping the seams on the coutil layer.

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Cutting the cotton for the lining and outer fabric.

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Sewing together the lining and pressing the seams.

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Almost everything was done with the machine, but the gussets on the outer fabric were done by hand. This part took such precision that when doing it with the machine it sometimes got a bit sloppy for the lining and interlining.

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Pressing the to prepare for the second gusset.

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Done! Hand-sewn gussets.

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All three layers are done!

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Here you can see how the layers will go together. The lining and interlining with wrong sides together and the outer layer with the wrong side to the interlining.